Beginning of a garment
Crafting a Garment:
What really goes into the creation of your made-to-measure garment? Each and every part of the process is handled by a highly skilled human being. The majority of those making your special new pieces of clothing come from small family businesses, who have passed their skills and trade through generations and are true artisans.
In this multi-part series we will explore in more detail just what considerations are put into your garment before you place your order, through you placing the order and the garment arriving with you. A chance to get a behind the scenes look at how garments are made from start to finish.
Concept to Design
In the beginning we must consider the design. The design of a garment is far more than simply a picture or an idea. Above all things practicality and functionality must be considered in order to make a concept a reality. Take a jacket for example - what shape and style of collar and lapel will it have? How close will the fit be? What type of pockets will there be and where will they sit on the garment? Each element takes careful consideration to get the right combination for the design.
Furthermore, measurements come into play. Every pocket must meet specific dimensions and distance from the seam. When you provide your measurements for a garment to be made, these are adjusted to suit your unique shape.
Pocket Types and Considerations
Pockets are vital to many garments. The majority of jackets, coats, trousers and some skirts contain some form of pockets. There are so many different types, but essentially these fall into three distinct categories: in-seam, external, and inset.
In-seam pockets can include curved, angled, straight, and even concealed pockets. The key for them is that they are finished by attaching one or more sides of the pocket bag (the actual part which creates the space inside a pocket) into the seams of the garment. These are often found on trousers, and some coats. The style of the pocket, particularly for coats, may be anything from plainly visible to concealed or even contain a zip or flap.
External pockets are exactly as they sound â they literally sit on top of the main body of fabric, and most of these are patch pockets â sewn on top like a patch.
Inset pockets are a bit of both. Essentially extra fabric is attached to the outside of the main fabric in most cases, but then part of this is folded inside the garment, or is attached to an internal pocket bag by cutting into the main body of fabric. There are several common types of these pockets used, particularly in suiting, for back trouser pockets, inside a jacket and for a front jacket pocket. These are often single or double jetts â the horizontal âlinesâ of fabric. Single refers to one, double means there are two, and these sometimes are hidden by a flap. Another common inset pocket is a breast welt â often on the chest of a suit jacket, where your handkerchief is traditionally kept.
Product Design & Development Assistant
Scotweb Marketing Ltd